The Bespoke Tailoring Experience

What truly sets the art of bespoke tailoring apart is the realm of possibilities and decisions to be made between myself and the client. Below is an outline of the process I work through in order to achieve this:

Once a cloth has been chosen I then go through the style of the garments and help decide upon the trimmings like button twists, buttons and linings.The bespoke tailoring process always starts with a conversation. This is where I guide your ideas and help you make decisions about cloth and style. We decide upon the cut that best compliments your figure and consider the environment to which the garments are to be worn. With your measurements taken and your stance and figurations assessed, I then set about drafting a set of master patterns.

a set of paper patterns are made for each individual commission and then chalked out onto the cloth, cut out and made up to a first fitting.Your cloth is hand cut from the master patterns and along with a pad stitched forepart canvas is made up into a forward baste fitting. I call this the “tailor's fitting” because, for the first time, I'm getting to see how the garment and your figure will pair together. For a customers first garment I may require a number of fittings at this stage before I progress to the next. The garment is then ripped down and shaped and any adjustments made here are added to the master patterns to help progress any future orders.

The first fitting, or forward baste, is the occasion where I get to fit and see how the garments will eventually take on the form of your figure.As a garment is brought up to the second fitting stage it is nearing its completion. With this fitting you can now start to see and feel how the clothing will eventually drape and fit your body. My concern at this stage are issues such as setting the sleeve and trouser lengths, making sure the collar sits close to the neck and attending any other issues that'll help meet your expectations.

The completed suit is finished off with edge stitching and hand bound buttonholes. the basting threads holding in the floating canvas are ripped out and the garments are ready for a final press with a 12lb iron.Having attended to any adjustments on the garment, it is now taken up to completion including all the chosen finishing stitches and hand bound button holes. My pressing is carried out using the traditional damp rag and dry iron method which allows me to bring out the true shape of the garment. All that's left now is for you to enjoy wearing your garments feeling confident and elegant.

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